The yearly check-up includes:
- Checking the seal of the instrument. Fixing any
leaks in the body of the bassoon
- Replacing pads, refacing and sealing tone holes
where necessary
- Fixing any loose posts
- Cleaning out water tubes, high D, C and A/Bb
pips
- Oiling the bore when necessary
- Oiling and quieting of the mechanism
- Adjusting the mechanism
- Replacing tenon corks and wrap when necessary
Repad includes:
- Complete disassembly of the bassoon
- All loose posts are secured
- Body of instrument is cleaned
- All cracks in the body of the instrument are
sealed
- Leaks in the body of the instrument are sealed
- Keys are buffed if asked for
- Bore is oiled when necessary
- U-tube bracket is sealed when necessary
- U-tube cork is replaced
- Tone holes are leveled and refaced where necessary
- All pads are replaced.
- Regulation corks and felts
replaced as needed
- Mechanism is oiled and quieted
- Mechanism is adjusted and spring tensions are
adjusted for ease of playing
Refinish-replate
includes:
- Complete disassembly of bassoon
- All keys, posts and bands are stripped of old
plating. All scratches and pitting are removed from keys. Keys, posts and
bands are buffed to a high sheen and replated with a triple coat of silver
or, if asked for, gold plating.
- All leaks in the body of the instrument are sealed
- Wood is stripped of old finish. Scratches are
removed from wood. Tiger striping is available if asked for. Wood is stained
the color of choice. Entire body of bassoon is finished with 100 or so coats
of shellac using the French polishing technique. Finish can be made full
gloss or any degree of satin wanted.
- Posts and bands are reinstalled along with a
complete repad as listed above
Refinish wood includes:
- Same as refinish-replate without the work on
the metal parts
Replate keys and posts
includes:
- Same as refinish-replate without the wood refinishing
- Some keys will have nickel
plating on them which requires a chemical strip. I have to send keys with
nickel plating out for the chemical strip. The price will increase according
to what this process costs me.
Maple tenon cap: (click
on blue hotlinks to view pictures)
- This is the best way to fix severely cracked tenons on the long joint or
to get rid of those ridiculous metal tenon caps that always seem to come
loose. (at least here in New England) When finished, this tenon cap is not noticeable unless the cork or thread
wrap is removed from the tenon. It also makes the tenon much stronger and
crack resistant than a tenon with a metal cap or no cap at all. The maple
I use for these caps has been seasoned at least eight years and treated
with a special wood treatment to help stabilize the wood once the cap is
in place
Replace wood rot in boot
with liner:
- When a bassoon has not been properly swabbed
out over the course of several years severe wood rot in the boot around
the u-tube will occur. This is fixed by removing all the rotten wood with
a special reamer and replacing the wood with a liner made from aged, treated
maple with the bore reamed to the correct dimensions. The maple I use for these liners has been
seasoned for at least eight years and treated with a special wood treatment
to make the wood stable and water resistant.
Specialty keys:
Plating these keys is extra. Plating costs are
determined by the plating company.